Reformation: Blending Masculinity and Femininity in Menswear

A Unique Collection Inspired by Flower Petals

The Reformation collection stands out with its unique layering details, reminiscent of the blooming of flower petals. These layers accentuate female design elements that are not typically seen in menswear lines, creating a bold and boundary-pushing aesthetic.

The collection's strength lies in its ability to strike a delicate balance between masculinity and femininity. The structural elements and layering techniques used in the designs create a cohesive line that blurs the lines between traditional gender norms.

The realization of the Reformation collection relies on a combination of curves, layering, and structural elements. The pants are crafted from a polyester twill woven fabric, providing a structural cohesion, while the tops feature a combination of polyester jersey and knit for a contrasting effect between woven and knitted materials. Polyester rayon satin is used as a design detail, accentuating the feminine quality of the garments within the layering designs.

Technical specifications for the Reformation collection include measurements such as shoulder point to point, front length from high point shoulder, armhole circumference, and waist relaxed. These specifications ensure a precise fit and showcase the attention to detail in the design process.

The Reformation collection is a result of extensive research into layering techniques and the way women dress. By incorporating curved hems and layers of fabric, Les presents a feminine presentation of the garments, while the boxy silhouette and structural designs add a masculine contrast. This combination creates a unique fashion taste that is not for every male, but only for the fearless and fashion-forward.

The design process for Reformation was not without its challenges. Sewing operations, particularly in the pants, required careful consideration of the order in which seams were sewn. Mock-ups proved invaluable in guiding the process and overcoming obstacles through trial and error. Additionally, working with knits presented its own set of challenges, as sewing knits requires patience, skill, and careful attention to tension on the sewing machine.

The Reformation collection was brought to life between January and July 2017 at The Art Institute of California San Diego. It represents a new direction for menswear, pushing boundaries and challenging traditional notions of gender in fashion.

Photographer Amelia Christie captured the essence of the Reformation collection, showcasing its unique design elements and the fusion of masculinity and femininity. The collection was recognized for its creativity and ingenuity, receiving the Bronze A' Design Award in the Fashion, Apparel, and Garment Design category in 2018. This prestigious award honors designs that exhibit strong technical and creative skills, contributing to improvements in quality of life and making the world a better place.